Jamdani, a fine muslin textile, is known for its intricate patterns and decorative designs. Originating from Bengal, Jamdani weaving is a labor-intensive process that requires exceptional skill and patience. Thе motifs are traditionally panna hajar (thousand emeralds), kalaka (paisley), butidar (small flower), fulwar (flower arranged in straight rows), tesra (diagonal patterns), jalar (motifs evenly covering the sari), duria (polka spots), charkona (rectangular motifs), naksha, belwari, nayanbahar, toradar, and are wove into the fabric by hand, creating a rich tapestry that is both lightweight and luxurious.

Jamdani fabric is often used for sarees, dupattas, scarves, and dresses, making it a popular choice for special occasions and traditional ceremonies. The elegance and sophistication of Jamdani make it a timeless addition to any wardrobe.

The Origins of Jamdani

Jamdani is a fine muslin textile (figured with different patterns) produced for centuries in South Rupshi of Narayanganj district in Bangladesh on the bank of the Shitalakhwa river.

The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. During the period of British rule in India, Bengal's jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to being unable to compete with imported textiles manufactured in Great Britain. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh. Jamdani is typically woven using a mixture of cotton and gold thread.

Weaving Process

• The sari has been the mainstay of the Kashmir weaving industry. The weavers of Bengal are very proud of their ability to weave fabrics that are highly appreciated across the world.

• While many technological innovations have advanced the nature of textiles in the west, it is hard to beat the psychological pleasure of wearing muslin of the finest quality, knowing they are woven by hand.

• Jamdani saris are mostly woven in fine cotton, with extra weft designs that are inserted by hand either with a shuttle or with a needle.

• The fine cotton yarn used for the base fabric needs starching in order to give it strength to withstand the stress on the loom.

• Traditional sizing methods use a particular type of rice starch (from Kalma rice).

• The yarn is then transferred onto spools or bobbins to be used for the warp and weft.

• Frame looms are used for Jamdani weaving, and the warp is prepared on a warping drum.

• The ends are manually drawn through the reed when a new warp is prepared.

• Jacquard looms have made it possible to make intricate designs since the lifting order of the warp threads is defined by the jacquard cards.

• While the base fabric uses fine yarn, the ornamentation is usually done with a thicker thread.

• The design itself continues to be hand-inserted in a painstaking process that demands great skill.

• A supplementary industry around weaving is that of dyeing.

Fall & Revive 

The dyeing houses provide dyed yarn directly to weavers and also supply it to yarn markets further The jamdani industry started to gradually decrease in the middle of the 19th century. There were several variables that led to this decrease. The fall was sparked by the arrival of cheaper, lower-quality yarn from Europe later on. Most significantly, the manufacturers of jamdani lost their strongest supporters when the Mughal era in India declined. Villages that were formerly widely recognized for their jamdani industry, such as Madhurapur and Jangalbari (both in the Kishoreganj district), rapidly abandoned.

Whilst the art of jamdani is on the decline due to current problems such as competition with cheaper and more lucrative clothing as well as lack of suitable remuneration for weavers. However, there have been a few encouraging signs in recent times.

Exhibitions such as the Jamdani Festival of Wearable Art curated by Chandra Shekhar Shaha was held in July 2023 in Bangladesh in collaboration with the National Crafts Council of Bangladesh to illustrate sustainably produced and hand-woven jamdani saris.

Aankona proud to support the women and artisans who keep their traditions alive.